five courses of joy

a fantastic vegan meal at tayst restaurant

Last week, we joined a roomful of Nashville vegans for a sold-out event at Tayst restaurant, which we were fortunate to attend as guests of the chef. We'll take you through a play-by-play of the evening, but before reading any further, you might consider picking up your phone right now and calling in a reservation for next week's encore dinner. The food was phenomenal... bring an omni guest and let the power of inventive, well-executed vegan food blow his mind.

Okay, you've got to be ready for some photos and commentary after that statement. Here we go...

Quinoa and pea cakes with spaghetti squash, pumpkin seeds, tomatoes, and pomegranate

The opening course welcomed us with the flavors of late summer easing into fall (at last!). Delicate field peas were the star, their smooth texture distinctive in each bite of earthy quinoa and starchy squash. The restrained brushes of bright pomegranate glaze and pesto emulsion complemented, but did not overshadow, the warm, subtle character of the cake. 

Smoked pumpkin bisque with polenta fritos and arugula

This was Danielle's favorite dish! The soup was first experienced as a bold, smoky aroma, then filled the palate with deep, complex sweetness, with just enough acidity to prevent it from becoming cloying. Its texture was smooth and velvety, but without the tongue-numbing thickness of a dairy-based bisque. The flavor was perfectly balanced, divulging no ingredients other than the smoked pumpkin that it billed. And our table wanted a bottomless basket of the crisp, golden polenta fritos! 

Almond gnudi, toasted almonds, almond froth with sorrel pesto and pepper sauce

Crystal loved this elegant tribute to the almond. The dumplings were tender and succulent, a perfect bite with a dip of bitter-savory pesto or piquant pepper sauce. And the almond froth was no gimmick: its airy presence delivered a sweet hint of creamy almonds. Our table agreed that this dish deserves a spot on the regular menu.

Marinated, grilled tofu with carrots, eggplant, crispy shallots, roasted cucumber, tobacco potatoes, beets

This preparation of tofu and vegetables plays on the idea that vegans only eat... well, tofu and vegetables. But in this case, the tofu displays deeply caramelized grill marks, its warm interior fairly quivering with custard-like density. The presentation of the vegetables suggested that each should be savored on its own, so that its individual preparation could be studied: a dessert-like beet sauce, cucumber with a hint of seafood (sorry, that is the only way to describe it!), and potatoes with the sweetness of marshmallows. The result was an intriguing dish that makes the diner appreciate the facets of vegetables to which we are usually oblivious.

Warm flan with cashew cheese, apples, chestnuts, and dried cherries

The intensely savory creation described as "cashew cheese" fascinated and perplexed us. It bore no resemblance to the simple, light spreads that we've made, and was surely fermented, or maybe cured like a pâté? Chef Barlow revealed nothing, and seemed pleased to hear the observation that the dish was like a cheese course and dessert on one plate. The flan was not overly sugary, and was a nice foil for the sour-sweet cherries.

Finally, we had a meal in Nashville in which the use of plant-based ingredients was central to its creation, not an inconvenient, limiting factor. We didn't have to choose among different combinations of seitan and tempeh (which are, on occasion, delicious and desirable), or omit the dairy from a dish that was designed to have it. We went out and tasted food that we couldn't devise quickly or recreate at home easily. And the dining room was full of other people who seemed to feel the same way. Did we mention the dinner was sold out?

There is another Veganstravaganza dinner at Tayst on Wednesday, October 13, with another possible event in November. We hope that the success of this concept will inspire other Nashville establishments to offer vegan menu items and events. And we hope that Chef Barlow and the staff at Tayst will further commit to vegan dining by giving Full Menu Status to some of their outstanding vegan creations.

Tayst Restaurant and Wine Bar

2100 21st Ave S, Nashville, TN 37212

615-383-1953

Website

Like Tayst on Facebook

Veganstravaganza at Tayst

food to get excited about

Check out this menu:

Quinoa and pea cakes with spaghetti squash, pumpkin seeds, tomatoes, and pomegranate

Smoked pumpkin bisque with polenta fritos and arugula

Almond gnudi, toasted almonds, almond froth with sorrel pesto and pepper sauce

Marinated, grilled tofu with carrots, eggplant, crispy shallots, roasted cucumber, tobacco potatoes, beets

Warm flan with cashew cheese, apples, chestnuts, and dried cherries...

... with wine pairings!

This is the feast that co-blogger Crystal and I will be sharing at Tayst next Wednesday evening. It is the most intriguing line-up that I've seen in Nashville. I am delighted that Chef Jeremy Barlow is committing to vegan food for the evening, and am very grateful to be invited to attend. 

Check back next week to read all about the roasted cucumber-y, almond foamed goodness!

Veganstravaganza Dinner

$45 for five courses with wine pairings

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

6:30 pm

Tayst Restaurant and Wine Bar

2100 21st Ave S, Nashville, TN 37212

615-383-1953

Website

Like Tayst on Facebook

vegan ice cream recipes

churning our way through A La Mode*

Birthday Cake Ice Cream

Danielle says:
So satisfied have I been with my repertoire of banana shakes and green smoothies that my ice cream maker has spent most of the summer shoved behind the fondue pot.  My freezer was so crammed-full of frozen bananas, nuts, and leftovers that it could scarcely accommodate the freezing apparatus.  Fortunately, an important event stirred me to correct both these situations, and when the machine was plugged in and the bowl duly frozen, a cadre of recipes awaited in Hannah Kaminsky's e-book, A La Mode.

I made three batches over three days; it was easy with a little planning! Twenty-four hours before ICD (Ice Cream Day): find ice cream freezer and stash that baby in the, well, freezer. You can't cheat thermodynamics, so don't even try! At least 12 hours in advance: make ice cream base. Since most recipes require cooking in this step, you must allow time for the base to chill before adding it to your machine. Again, love and respect the laws of physics! Then, the fun starts.

The first recipe that I made, Peanut Butter Bombshell, turned out to be my favorite: its texture was so smooth and rich, its flavor so intensely gooberlicious, that I will definitely return to it. I used Trader Joe's chocolate Cats Cookies (yep, they're vegan!) and omitted the peanuts. Though the author notes that the cookies add "depth to this otherwise one-note ice cream," I might just leave them out next time and not tell her. Salted Creamy Peanut Butter Ice Cream, anyone?!

The perfect mate for PBIC has to be Jam Ice Cream, no? And it was a simple recipe to boot: all of three ingredients and less than five minutes of cooking time. If I have six minutes next time, I'll add a little starch to give this ice cream the custardy consistency of Hannah's other recipes. Strawberries 'n' Cream, here we come!

I couldn't put the ice cream spinner away without making something chocolate. I used this recipe, which calls for coconut milk, to produce a heavenly batch! Try it for yourself as a preview of the fantastic, frozen creations that are included in A La Mode. The recipes I tried were delightful, and the crowd of vegans and omnis who devoured them at my house seemed to agree! Next, I plan to make a batch of French Vanilla to accompany the luscious strawberries and peaches that find their way to my kitchen!

Chocolate Ice Cream

Crystal says:
I was so excited to receive A La Mode to review that the day it arrived in my inbox, I put my my ice cream maker's freezer bowl into the freezer. I had to wait 24 hours for the bowl to freeze completely so I thought it would be a good idea to get started on the ice cream as it too would require time to chill in the fridge before churning.

For my first recipe, I decided to make the German Chocolate Ice Cream. The ice cream base looked so thick and creamy I couldn't stop myself from trying a little spoonful before putting it into the fridge. It was absolutely delightful. Over the course of the next 20 or so hours, I frequently found myself going back to the fridge to devour to test the temperature of that chocolatey goodness. It eventually turned into a delectable pudding and, honestly, at that point, there was no need to even bother with the ice cream maker. But, for you my dear readers, carry on I did.

In the book, On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, the author Harold McGee says that the mark of a well-made ice cream is one that is, "creamy, smooth, firm, almost chewy." I am pleased to say that Hannah's chocolate ice cream base is all of the above. However, it is not for the faint of heart. This ice cream is the richest ice cream I have ever eaten and that is exactly why I love it. Other ice cream recipes I've tried produce a delicious product but a little bowl always leaves me wanting for more. With Hannah's recipe I was able to have just a few spoonfuls and feel completely satisfied. It is a great way to enjoy a sweet treat without all the guilt and pain that comes from consuming too many sugary calories.

I have made it many times since then, altering it slightly each time (omitting the coconut swirl, adding instant coffee crystals to make it a mocha ice cream, adding little brownie bites) and every variation has been just as scrumptious as the first. The picture above shows the mocha variation.

Eventually, I decided it was time to try out another recipe (for what kind of tester would I be if I only tried one of them?). I was recently in Oklahoma visiting my family and one day we took my niece, Sydney, to an ice cream shop. Sydney ordered her favorite flavor, Birthday Cake and they scooped her up an artificially colored and flavored cone full that she happily devoured.

It was with my sweet niece in mind that I made Hannah's Birthday Cake Ice Cream (pictured at the beginning of this post). I loved the idea behind it and her method for making this ice cream but, in all honesty, it was a little too sweet and thick for me. However, it's probably perfect for the little kiddos and you can feel good about serving them something without all the artificial junk. I know that my niece will LOVE it and I can't wait to make it for her the next time I see her.

* We both received free e-copies of A La Mode to review.

happy birthday, crystal!

say it with ice cream

Today is the birthday of my good friend and co-blogger, Crystal! To celebrate, I made three kinds of ice cream and assembled the funnest ice cream cake I could dream up (Mom: I know that "funnest" is not a real word).

The ice cream recipes were created by Hannah Kaminsky, cookbook author and blogger extraordinaire.  Check back soon for Crystal's and my review of her e-book, A La Mode. If you just can't wait to try one of her decadent delights, click on over to Bittersweet blog to find the chocolate ice cream recipe that I used (sans chocolate chips, and it was still awesome).

And what was the foundation of all this deliciousness?  It was the Simply Wonderful White Cake from Alisa Fleming's excellent resource and cookbook, Go Dairy Free. We have more to say about that book, too, so stay tuned!

main squeeze café

a delightful lunch stop

I wasn't born a road warrior, but I recently realized that my life is headed that direction: my husband just bought a 1970 slide-in camper for his almost-classic Ford F150.  The camper needs some improvements before I'll call it my vacation home.  In the meantime, I've been acclimating to the asphalt-loving lifestyle, which kicked off with our recent trip from Nashville to Santa Fe, NM.

We drove the westward leg in one go, stopping regularly to walk our dog and stretch, and completed the route (almost exclusively on I-40) within one day.  I had brought a hefty supply of cold salads, PB&J, and favorite snacks from Trader Joe's, so we didn't face the challenge of trying to find vegan food at truck stops along the way.  After spending a fantastic week in Santa Fe (more to come on that topic), it was time to pack up the car for our return leg, which took us north through Colorado before heading east on I-70.

Our decision to take a less-direct route was rewarded: the Colorado countryside and rolling green fields of Kansas were worth the extra hours on the road.  And then, my thoughtful husband suggested a stop in Columbia, Missouri, which he thought was the kind of town that might have a vegetarian restaurant.  A quick look at this resource confirmed his suspicion, and we pulled off the Interstate in search of Main Squeeze Natural Foods Café.

Main Squeeze was perfect: the vibe was warm and fun, the decor was funky and creative, and the menu offered a variety of yummy-sounding sandwiches, salads, and wraps, in addition to fresh juices, smoothies, and baked goods.  The staff were friendly and helpful, and all of the customers seemed peaceful and content, enjoying their healthful lunches while chatting or reading.


I ordered the Tempeh Ruby sandwich, which would be my first Reuben-style meal ever, vegetarian or otherwise.  It was totally delightful, with mildly spiced soft tempeh, crisp and tangy sauerkraut, and sweet, creamy dressing.  The soft, savory rye bread from Uprise Bakery completed the combination (or should I say, made it complete).  The freshness of all of the ingredients was palpable, and the flavors were perfectly balanced.  I wanted to order another Ruby to take home, but knew that a second helping couldn't provide the same satisfaction.  So I simply savored the moment, pausing to enjoy my perfect company and the wonderful handmade goodness that we were served.

Charles had the Sunshine Burger, a vegan patty topped with fresh tomato, lettuce, and Russian dressing and served on a wheat bun.  I could tell by how few words we exchanged how much he enjoyed it.  We each had a cup of (vegan) creamy soup with local greens, smooth and satisfying.  We agreed that the meal was the perfect respite from our long car trip, and returned to the counter to further reward ourselves with dessert.  About half of the desserts were vegan, and they ran the gamut from full-on-sugary cupcakes to heartier bar cookies and muffins.  I opted for the latter, choosing a chocolate coconut bar.  It was tasty, but I could tell that Charles would've preferred something of the sweeter variety.  I'll have to let him choose, next time!

I loved our visit to Main Squeeze, an establishment that seems to address all facets of being a responsible restaurant.  In addition to using organic produce almost exclusively, and local produce when available, they offer filtered water, avoiding the packaging and inhospitable expense of bottled water.  The restaurant's waste is minimized by composting, recycling, and use of earth-friendly to-go packaging.  They also support the community by participating in fundraising events and providing space for local artists to sell their work.  According to their website, the mission of Main Squeeze is to be a sustainable business, basing their decisions on this question: "Is this the very best that we can do for the health of our planet, our employees, our customers, our community?"

Clearly, Main Squeeze made a happy customer out of me, and I highly recommend that you check it out, whether you're a local or a cross-country traveller.

Main Squeeze Natural Foods Café
28 S. 9th Street
Columbia, MO 65201
573.817.5616

the dirty dozen list

a useful tool



In a perfect world, everyone would have access to all of the organically-grown produce that they wished to eat.  However, budgetary restrictions might prevent this in many households, including my own.  The Dirty Dozen produce list, compiled by the Environmental Working Group, is a useful tool for balancing the goals of eating a lot of produce, limiting our exposure to pesticides, and keeping the grocery bill within the budget.

This list is a ranking of the fruits and vegetables with the highest residual pesticide load.  There is a companion list, The Clean Fifteen, and a full list that includes other popular produce that falls in the middle of the pesticide spectrum.  According to EWG, eating produce listed on the D12 list will cause you to be exposed to ten or more pesticides a day; eating the produce on the C15 list would limit your exposure to two or fewer pesticides a day.


Does this mean that you shouldn't eat celery, the top veggie listed on the D12?  No, but knowing that it is the most likely to be contaminated, you might choose to buy organic celery instead of conventionally grown.  The list can help you determine on which foods it makes sense to spend the extra money to buy organically grown produce.  For example, I choose to save a little money on avocados (on the C15), but spend a little extra on organic apples (on the D12)  It's handy to consult this list not only when buying fresh produce, but also when choosing frozen fruit and veggies, and items such as apple sauce or juice.

In general, I avoid buying conventional produce that's on the D12, but ultimately, I base my buying decisions on the foods that I need and want to eat.  For example, I buy kale and collard greens on a regular basis.  A large bunch of conventionally-grown greens can be had for less than a buck at many markets, while organic kale is usually available only at Whole Foods for $4.  So, I tend to buy the conventionally-grown greens, because I think that it's important to eat a lot of dark, leafy greens.  Another approach would be to buy low-pesticide-load broccoli most of the time, and buy the organic leafy greens as an occasional splurge.

I hope that you appreciate the information that this list provides, and that you find a way to make it work for you.  I think it's important to remember that the vegan diet eliminates exposure to many toxins, because we aren't consuming all of the chemicals that are stored in the fat of animals, which are usually fed a diet of highly-sprayed grains (in addition to other unsavory junk).  Since more organic choices are available when a certain produce is in season, shopping according to the D12 also promotes buying seasonal and local produce.

vegan chocolate + chile shake

an exquisite creation

My craving for sweet food begins when I wake up and has been known to last all day long.  I want to reduce the refined sugar in my diet because these empty calories don't do my body any favors, and it is swimsuit season, after all.  GT's Kombucha has been helping me curb my cravings, and I recently came across a new weapon against my mental desire for sweets: shakes made with frozen bananas.

Frozen bananas behave like ice cream when added to shakes, providing a creamy texture and natural sweetness. While we don't care for this thick consistency in our fruit smoothies, my husband and I agree that bananas are excellent for emulating milkshakes.  Of course, along with the texture attributes, bananas also contribute their characteristic flavor, but it complements a wide array of fruits, nut butters, and spices.  Adding cocoa powder plus a few dates produces a toothsome snack without refined sugar.  This version is a nod to the popular combination of chocolate and chile, particularly to the trend-setting Vosges chocolate bar.  A little dose of capsicum adds heat and complexity to the mellow cocoa flavor, and the warm spice of cinnamon completes the exotic blend.

The recipe below yields a subtle heat that should be approachable to most people, and you may find yourself increasing the amount of chile in future batches.  Ancho is poblano pepper in its dried form, and its flavor is on the mild, sweet side of the chile pepper spectrum.  It is requently included in mole sauce, and whole anchos are easily found with Mexican groceries.  Cayenne powder introduces a warm heat that dissipates quickly, instantly tamed by the sugar of the banana.  While I like to have this shake for breakfast, others might find it a more appropriate later in the day, and it is decadent enough for serving as dessert.


When I start the day with some version of a chocolate banana shake, I feel satisfied for hours.  Amazingly, I'm able to skip second breakfast, and can even dismiss sweets that might present themselves later in the day.  This is accomplished with no refined sugar and very little fat!  If unsweetened almond milk is used, I estimate that this recipe contains less than 400 calories and 20 grams of sugar.  Let's compare this to the chocolate shake from Sonic that I would have eaten in my pre-vegan days: 568 calories, 25.6 g fat (17.9 g saturated fat), 49 g sugar!  And absolutely no fiber, which may explain why it was less satisfying than this shake, with about 12 grams of fiber.

I feel really good about the "milk"shakes in my life, and I hope that you indulge in something equally pleasurable.

Vegan Chocolate + Chile Shake
makes one 12-ounce shake


1 1/2 banana, peeled, cut into chunks, and frozen
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
4 medjool dates
5 ice cubes
4 oz non-dairy milk
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract (if using plain non-dairy milk)
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
1/2 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• Add all ingredients to blender.  Blend until smooth according to manufacturer's instructions.
• Pour into a glass and enjoy!

falling in love again with my blender

osterizer hacks

Today's post was intended to include a recipe for a shake that I have been eating every day.  But something developed that I find even more exciting, and the exotically-spiced chocolate shake will have to wait until Friday.  It is postponed so that you may read of the newly-discovered capabilities of my old blender.

I bought a classic Osterizer during college for making frozen margaritas.  I'm sure it was used for other applications a few times, but the cause that led me to plunk down $60 at the local Target was making sweet-tart, icy, tequila-laden cocktails at home.  I chose this model because its metal base seemed sturdy and its retro, beehive shape looked cool.  It has a 500-watt motor and a simple, toggle control with three options: on, off, and pulse.  Alas, it wasn't proficient at crushing ice, producing libations of irregular consistency, with persistent, large chunks of ice among the smooth icy granules.


Over the ensuing years, I came to prefer margaritas on the rocks (could this dismissal of my mother's preference be indicative of my own personal development? Must ask therapist).  Gradually, the blender was used less and less frequently, and I confess that my old friend spent the past year languishing in the guest room closet.

In starting my vegan education last fall, a powerful blender seemed a useful tool to have.  Luckily, my mentor lent me a brawny model so that I could whip up thick sauces and creamy smoothies to my heart's tummy's content.  I used it frequently, forsaking the Osterizer and wondering how long I could wait before sinking $400 into a new wunder-blender.

Today, preparing to make the shake, I pulled out the Jack LaLanne blender... and also the Osterizer.  Frankly, I expected to start the process in the Ostersizer, then give up and dump everything in the JLL blender to finish.  However, to my shock and awe, my old buddy did an admirable job, blending ice, frozen banana and all into a thick, creamy, uniform consistency.

Here's what I think made the difference: a tamper!  I inserted the tamper from the JLL through the opening of the Osterizer lid to push all of the ingredients toward the blades while it was running.  So, before you drop $400 on a Vita-Mix or a Blendtec, you could try using a tamper device with your blender, taking care that it is the proper length not to make contact with the blades. *

You may be wondering about the bizarre appearance of the blender in the leading photo.  Well, it happens that an observant consumer realized that the Oster blade apparatus fits perfectly onto regular-mouth Mason jars.  I couldn't be more tickled, since I store my bulk, dry goods in Mason jars.  Instead of the two-part canning lids, I use plastic storage lids that can be purchased in packs of eight from many retailers.  But I digress.

By attaching the base of the Oster to a Mason jar*, the blender can effectively process small amounts of wet and dry ingredients.  In a quick experiment, I placed a small amount of rolled oats in a 20 oz jar, and a few almonds in an 8 oz jelly jar.  With a few pulses, the blender produced oat flour and almond flour, the consistency of each comparing favorably to the flours that I usually make in the coffee mill.  With this setup, the Osterizer essentially does the job of a Magic Bullet!  This is fantastic because Mason jars are inexpensive, come in a variety of sizes, and are easy to clean (i.e. are dishwasher safe).  How's that for a multitasking tool?

Which brings us to another advantage of the good ol' Osterizer: the canister can be disassembled, so I can clean the carafe and the blades thoroughly without shredding my sponge (or my fingers).  Replacement parts and additional accessories (including a milkshake blade!) are also available at reasonable prices, though Oster doesn't offer a tamper.

So, though my experiments are limited, I think that my old blender will be seeing a great deal more use in the future.  To summarize my opinion of the Osterizer:

• Pros: easy to clean, powerful, all-metal drive system, affordable, attractive styling, simple controls, good blending ability when used with tamper, fits Mason jars for more versatility, easy to clean, easy to replace parts.
• Cons: relatively small carafe capacity of five cups, gaskets must be aligned properly to prevent leaking.

So, if you don't care about pulverizing an iPad in your blender, you might give the Osterizer a try!

*The manufacturer does not endorse using a tamper or Mason jars with the Osterizer blender.  If you choose to use your blender in this way, it could potentially damage your blender, cause additional damage and/or injury.  The authors of this blog are not responsible for any mishaps that may occur.  Operate your blender at your own risk!

PS: I just entered a giveaway for Artisana Coconut Butters at Chocolate-Covered Katie's blog, and you should, too!

vegan tofu scrambled "eggs"

a delicately flavored dish

I didn't grow up eating tofu, but I did grow up eating scrambled eggs.  It was an easy, filling dish that I could whip up in a few minutes at home, or a safe choice at a diner where other options seemed too greasy or sweet.  Before I realized how the poultry industry is conducted, eggs seemed like a sensible food to eat once in a while.  And I really liked their texture, flavor, and versatility.

With about six months of vegan cooking and baking under my belt, I'm learning which animal-free ingredients contribute the right balance of protein, fat, and water to particular recipes.  I've eaten creamy desserts, smooth sauces, chewy cookies, and tender cakes, all eggless.  I've also had several versions of that protein-packed, vegan stalwart: the tofu scramble.

The scrambles that have crossed my path have been seasoned with pungent flavors such as cumin, curry powder, and garlic.  While I enjoyed them and appreciated how simple they were to prepare, my palate needed a little time to recover from the heavy spices.  For breakfast particularly, I wanted to create a scramble with mellow seasonings to complement the soft texture of tofu.  One that emulates a plate of scrambled eggs.

The scramble starts with sautéed shallots, which become sweet and aromatic.  Turmeric, with its powerful, golden color and relatively subtle flavor, is still in the mix (I can't totally break with tradition).  But it is the only ground spice invited to the party.  Instead, choose a combination of the lighter-flavored herbs from your pantry or garden: dill, tarragon, chervil, chives, maybe a touch of parsley or marjoram.  Add dried herbs at the beginning so they absorb some of the tofu's moisture while cooking, and toss on fresh herbs at the end, so that they retain their vibrant flavors and colors.

The secret ingredient, the one that adds a touch of authenticity to this pan of faux oeufs, is a dash of black salt.  Crystal gave me this fine, pinkish-hued salt, which is called kala namak and is used in certain Indian dishes.  Its sulphurous odor can be overwhelming, but a small amount of black salt provides a convincingly egg-like aroma to this tofu scramble.  Look for it in Indian grocery stores.

Tofu Scrambled "Eggs"
makes four servings

• 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced shallot
• 1 pound firm tofu, drained and lightly pressed
• 1/4 teaspoon black salt (kala namak)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh summer savory
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon 
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
• freshly ground black pepper
• vegan parmesan-style sprinkle (optional)

1. Heat EVOO in a medium-sized, nonstick pan over moderate heat.  Add chopped shallot to pan and sauté until aromatic and translucent.
2. Add tofu to pan, crumbling into irregular chunks the size of walnut halves.  Sprinkle black salt and turmeric onto tofu and sauté for five minutes, turning gently to combine.
3. When tofu is uniformly golden-colored and is heated through, remove pan from heat.  Sprinkle fresh herbs and several grinds of black pepper on top of tofu and turn to combine.  Divide between four warmed plates and serve with parmesan-style sprinkle.

Note: Dried herbs may be substituted for fresh. Use 1/4 teaspoon dried herbs for 1 teaspoon fresh, and add dried herbs with black salt and turmeric.

vegan milk + cookies

a classic snack, dairy-free

I'm not much of a baker; in fact, I can't remember the last time I baked a cake. I usually go for sweet treats that involve chilling, blending, and otherwise not turning on the oven. But I love cookies, especially chewy, oatmeal cookies with lots of cinnamon and raisins... a portable dose of oatmeal that's ready for spontaneous snacking!  My craving for these goodies was recently awakened, when my mom bought a jumbo cookie at lunch and allowed forced me to finish it.

It was awesome.  And even more awesome was the realization that the ingredient list seemed to correspond very closely to this recipe, which Crystal discovered and shared with me a few weeks ago. I tweaked it a little to achieve the spices and texture of the Alternative Baking masterpiece. This included substituting pumpkin pie spice for their cinnamon, because I love the flavor of nutmeg with raisins. I used instant oats and finely-chopped walnuts to create a smoother texture. The sugars were creamed with the sugars for several minutes in a stand mixer to create lots of little air pockets, which expand when the baking soda and powder are activated by the oven's heat. And I tried to observe the cardinal rule of baking: don't overmix the dry ingredients!

Then, it was on to the next challenge: don't overbake!  I've found this to be the trickiest part of vegan baking, and it's hard for me to resist sliding the sheetpan back into the oven when the cookies look pale and a little too moist.  Go ahead and take them out:  they will continue baking on the pan for a minute, and will firm up on the cooling rack. You don't have to worry about undercooking these egg-less goodies!

I poured a  glass of chilled hazelnut milk alongside these warm cookies.  It was my first time making nut milk, and its freshness is a distinct improvement over nut milk in aseptic packaging.  Plus, hazelnut milk is not as easy to find in shops, and making it at home saves a trip to Whole Foods!

Vegan Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
makes 2 dozen large cookies

• 1 cup Earth Balance, softened
• 1 cup packed brown sugar
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 "eggs" (I used 3 teaspoons of Ener-G egg replacer whisked in 4 tablespoons of water)
• 1 1/4 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 cups instant oats
• 1 1/2 cups raisins
• 1 cup chopped walnuts

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. In a large mixing bowl, cream together margarine, brown sugar, sugar, and vanilla until light and fluffy.
3. Add egg replacer eggs and beat until well blended.
4. In another bowl, combine flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
5. Gradually add dry ingredients to margarine mixture until well blended.
6. Stir in oats, raisins, and nuts (if using).
7. On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, drop the dough by 1/4 cupfuls and lightly flatten with fingers.
8. Bake for 13 minutes and remove baking sheets from the oven. Let cookies remain on baking sheet for 2 minutes.
9. Transfer to cooling racks to finish cooling. Store in an airtight container.

Hazelnut Milk
makes 6 cups

• 3/4 cup raw hazelnuts
• 6 cups drinking water
• maple syrup, up to 1/4 cup

1. Add hazelnuts to bowl of water. Cover and refrigerate for 4-8 hours.
2. Remove bowl from refrigerator and pour soaked nuts and liquid into Vita-Mix or similar, powerful blender. Blend according to manufacturer's instructions, up to two minutes.
3. Pour nut milk through a fine sieve or two layers of cheesecloth, into a clean bowl.
4. Add maple syrup by the tablespoon to achieve desired sweetness.
5. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 4 days.

the silly goose

new favorite nashville eatery

"Would you like a basil lemonade?" Who, I ask you, can resist these words on a sunny afternoon off, particularly after having hopped off a motorcycle into a bright, cheerful, cozy restaurant? I certainly couldn't, and so began our mid-week lunch at The Silly Goose in East Nashville.

We sat at one of the four-top tables in the intimate space, which has high ceilings, original art and murals, and a few bar seats along the front glass walls.  Our server was friendly, hospitable, and attentive.  Just over my shoulder, three more smiling folks worked calmly in the open kitchen.  We sipped our basil lemonades as we looked over the menu, which features bold flavors and some locally-supplied produce.


Wonderful dining partner that he is, my husband allowed me to order for both of us.  We began with the Mexico City couscous dish pictured above, which was infused with red chili and garnished with two vibrant pepper purées.  Though the menu description includes chicken, ours was modified to include avocado and served with the chèvre on the side (Charles reported that it was mild and creamy).  I loved the balance of flavors and textures: mildly spicy, chewy couscous, bursts of sweet, smooth mango, creamy slices of avocado, and the occasional smear of zesty purée.  Washed down with a refill of sweet-sour, herbaceous lemonade!

We also ordered the Wizard wrap, with cheese-less pesto instead of aioli.  The refreshing combination of fennel and roasted red pepper played beautifully against the deep flavors of marinated portobello mushroom and balsamic reduction.  We chose a side salad (herb couscous was the other choice), which was a generous portion of fresh, local greens.

I thought that was going to be it.  I was well pleased by our selections, and was already planning which menu items (Fielding couscous, Goose Stack salad, beet-apple-ginger juice) that I would try on our next visit.  But, following a friendly conversation with the main cook about how the restaurant wishes to accommodate all diners' food preferences, it came out that one of the daily ice cream flavors was vegan.  Mango-lime ice cream, made with coconut milk.  Of course, this led to our ordering a bowl, which led to three luscious scoops being delivered to our table.  We devoured the smooth, sweet, toothsome treat, and I leaned back in my chair with a feeling of absolute contentment.  We lingered for a few minutes before heading out on the bike.  I was certain that we would return.  Soon.

The Silly Goose
1888 Eastland Avenue
Nashville, TN
www.sillygoosenashville.com
615.915.0757

vegan black bean + pumpkin dip

not your typical hummus

Have you ever opened a can of pumpkin purée to make muffins or another scrumptious creation, and then found yourself with a scant half-cup of leftover pumpkin?  Have you wondered what application would give you maximum enjoyment of such a small amount?  Here's an idea: a flavorful, savory dip that marries luscious pumpkin with velvety black beans and smoky, piquant spices.
This dip, which has a creamy texture and a hint of mellow sweetness, is excellent with raw vegetables, tortilla chips and crackers (I like Trader Joe's new gluten-free Seeded Onion and Chive Corn Crackers), as well as starchy side dishes, like corn or sweet potatoes.  It would also make an excellent filling for light, soft tacos with avocado and shredded cabbage.  The next time I make this dip, I will gently fold in the pumpkin last, so that streaks of bright orange contrast with the deep gray tone of the bean purée.  The recipe below reflects this change.

While I opt for canned pumpkin purée for sake of convenience (and so I can have it year-round), I do cook my own black beans.  Per Rick Bayless's instruction, I add a couple of sprigs of fresh epazote to the beans, along with a sliced onion.  Epazote is available in bunches at Latino markets, and is priced at 99 cents in my area.  I buy a large bunch, wash and dry it, separate the sprigs, and freeze them on a flat surface.  Once frozen, I throw them into a zip-top bag and keep them in the freezer for flavoring many pots of delicious beans.

The other special seasoning in this recipe is smoked Spanish paprika, or pimentón.  Its smoky, sweet, earthy flavor is intense, and I caution you to use it sparingly!  It adds a deep dimension to bean and rice dishes, and is my favorite addition to roasted potatoes.  Smoked paprika is also one of the pivotal ingredients in this intriguing recipe.

Black Bean and Pumpkin Dip
makes 2 1/2 cups

• 2 1/2 cups cooked black beans
• 2 tablespoons tahini
• 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 lime, zested and juiced
• 3/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 teaspoon whole coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seed
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
• 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
• 1/4 cup pumpkin purée

1. Grind the whole coriander, cumin, and pepper flakes in a mortar and pestle or a clean coffee grinder.
2. In a food processor, combine black beans, tahini, garlic, EVOO, garlic, salt, ground spices, and paprika. Purée until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl.
3. Transfer to a serving bowl.  Gently fold in cilantro and pumpkin purée.  Do not mix completely, so that ribbons of pumpkin remain visible.
4. Serve chilled and refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container.

vegan fruit + nut bars: sticky bun

homemade snacks inspired by lärabar

I don't want Lära to get mad at me, but I might stop buying her bars as frequently. Influenced by Katie's collection of fudge babies, I've created my first batch of raw fruit and nut bars, dubbed Sticky Bun. They are naturally-sweetened, and free of gluten, grain, soy, and dairy, making them a great snack or dessert choice for people for many different diet persuasions.  Those to want to eat strictly organic foods will also enjoy making these from organically-grown ingredients.  Just be sure to avoid them if you have a nut allergy.


While the ingredients and method are straightforward, making these bars will require some special kitchen equipment.  The raw nuts and dried fruit must be chopped into a sticky mixture, which I accomplished using the food grinder attachment on my KitchenAid mixer.  A food processor should be up for the task, as well, but I would not recommend using a blender.  Is it possible that a workable texture could be produced using a knife and cutting board?  Perhaps for someone training for a food prep marathon!

Believe it or not, this recipe is on the higher end of the range for number of ingredients used (only six!).  Similar bars can be created with as few as two ingredients, dates and one variety of nut.  From that simple base, the flavor of the bars can be changed drastically with the addition of your choice of ingredients.  In addition to dried fruit, experiment with flavorful ingredients such as cocoa and chocolate, coffee, and even natural flavor extracts.

Sticky Bun Fruit + Nut Bars
makes 10 bars, about 1.4 oz each

• 1 cup/ 8 oz dried dates
• 1/3 cup/ 1.5 oz raisins
• 1/2 cup/ 2 oz raw walnuts
• 1/3 cup/1.5 oz raw pecans
• 1/4 cup/ 1 oz raw cashews
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• Special equipment: food grinder or food processor

1. Combine first five ingredients in a bowl. Process in food grinder or food processor according to manufacturer's instructions.
2. Collect fruit and nut mixture in a bowl. Sprinkle the cinnamon onto the mixture and mix thoroughly with hands, squeezing to form the mixture into a ball.
3. On a clean surface, form mixture into a flat log. Using a thin knife, cut log into ten slices. Store in an airtight container.

vegan bircher müesli

oatmeal for warm weather

During the gray months, I like to start the day with a bowl of thick, steamy, steel-cut oats.  You'll have to wait until fall for a post on steel-cut oats, though, because they're out of season in my house (gotta give them a chance to breed and raise their young). It's time to move on to breakfast options that are best enjoyed chilled, and a bowl of cold, cooked oatmeal seems depressingly Dickensian. We're going to tuck into something cheerful and healthy, an inspired dish from the Swiss Alps.

This is a Bircher (say "beer-cher") -style müesli, consisting of rolled grains, dried fruit, and chopped nuts. Its name honors the Swiss physician who promoted a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and grains, though the traditional version also includes dairy.  The amount of salt, fat, and sugar in müesli is highly variable. It can be prepared simply, exhibiting the sweetness of the dried fruit and the richness of the nuts; or, it can be a dessert-as-breakfast dish, garnished with compote and creamy accoutrements. I prefer the moderate approach, and developed this tasty, filling, sensible version.

Müesli can be purchased in the cereal aisle of many grocery stores, but it's wicked simple to throw together your own, personal blend.  I like to use a multigrain rolled cereal for the base: rye, barley and wheat add richness and complexity to the customary oats.  If you have issues with gluten, just stick with gluten-free, rolled oats.

Toasting the grain enhances its flavor and provides a crisp texture.  It gives you the option of serving crunchy müesli with milk, perhaps adding it to commercial cereal or granola to cut down on their fat and sugar.  Soaked overnight, its texture becomes moist and tender, a soothing breakfast food that is ready when you rise.

The flavor of your müesli is largely determined by the nuts and dried fruit that you add.  My favorite combination includes a variety of rolled grains, dried apples and apricots, hazelnuts and almonds, producing a mildly sweet, toasty flavor.  For more sweetness, go with raisins and chopped dates, or even dried pineapple and shredded coconut. Hazelnuts can be substituted with your favorite nut or seed.  However, I strongly urge you not to tinker with the sliced almonds-- their flaky texture is perfect in this dish.

I like to store the grain and topping components separately, mixing them by the bowl to ensure fair distribution of the goodies. For me, soaking is not optional; müesli might be the only dish for which "soggy" is a flattering descriptor.  This dish led me to finally try soy yogurt, which I didn't even consider in my former life as a dairy addict. I used Silk Live! vanilla yogurt, and was surprised by its smooth texture and clean flavor.  One tub provides a week's worth of dollops, and it's become an essential topping for my müesli. A bit of grated apple provides additional sweetness and acidity, and a sprinkling of chia seeds ups the nutritional quotient of this light, nourishing breakfast.

Vegan Müesli
makes a batch for 6 servings

Notes: Rolled oats may be substituted for multigrain cereal. Try to find dried fruit that does not contain added sugar or preservatives, such as sulfur dioxide or potassium sorbate.

To make a batch of muesli:

• 2 cups rolled multigrain cereal (such as Country Choice Organic Multigrain cereal)
• 1/4 cup sliced almonds
• 1/4 cup chopped hazelnuts
• 1/4 cup chopped dried apples
• 1/4 cup chopped dried apricots

1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. Spread rolled cereal evenly in a sheet pan. Bake for 10 minutes, or until cereal smells toasty.
3. While cereal is toasting, combine nuts and dried fruit and store in an airtight container.
4. Remove pan from oven and allow cereal to cool on the pan.
5. Once cooled, store cereal in an airtight container.

To prepare one serving of müesli:

• 1/3 cup toasted cereal
• 1 heaping tablespoon nut and dried fruit mixture
• 1/4 cup non-dairy milk
• 1/4 cup grated, unpeeled apple
• 1 tablespoon vanilla soy yogurt
• 1/4 teaspoon chia seeds

1. Combine cereal, nut and fruit mixture, non-dairy milk, and apple in a cereal bowl. Stir, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
2. Remove bowl from refrigerator and stir müesli. Top with yogurt and chia seeds and serve.

vegan green slushie

refreshing and nourishing

Did you have a Snoopy Sno-Cone  Maker when you were growing up? Did you add super-syrupy blends of Kool-Aid to the chunky ice?  I did. There were also a lot of cola Icees, purple Slush Puppies, and orange snow balls in my childhood. Now, I haven't succumbed to a filling-station freezie for some time, but I have been known to brake for a "fresh fruit" slush during Sonic's happy hour. Though these drinks technically are vegan, they may contain artificial colors and flavors, copious amounts of corn syrup, and no nutritional value. And they usually come in Styrofoam cups, which I try to avoid.

Possessing a kitchen equipped with a blender, an ice-maker, and a well-stocked produce drawer, I decided that my next frosty beverage would be a DIY job. The sweet-and-sour flavor components would be fresh pineapple, agave nectar and fresh lime juice. Mint's already up in the backyard, thanks to our balmy spell of June-like heat, so that goes into the mix. And because you can never have enough greens, in goes a handful of watercress, as well.


Wait a second... how did watercress sneak into my sweet treat? Well, it turns out that the blended bevvie is a delicious way to mitigate the bitterness and toughness of raw greens, making it easer to include more of them in your daily intake (or your family's).  Start with a handful and see if anyone notices a difference in flavor (if they wonder about the hue, tell them it's from kiwifruit).  If you've never tried adding greens to your smoothies, you may be shocked at how easy it is to add a nutritional bonus to your diet.

Since I don't have (nor want) a dedicated home slushie machine, I chucked it all into my blender with a lot of ice and a splash of water.  The goal was a drinkable, icy consistency rather than a thick smoothie, so the bananas stayed in the freezer.  Puréed for a few moments and voilà: a zippy green drink that's capable of giving you a brainfreeze.  And, if you add alcohol, a hangover.  I recommend sipping this slush through a fat straw, such as the bubble tea straws found at Asian grocery stores or the borosilicate straws that have taken blogosphere by storm.  Google it.

Call it a slushie, a mocktail, or a frozen libation, I prefer to think of it as the beginning.  Other combinations in my head include lemon-strawberry-basil, lime-mango-cilantro, and lemon-blueberry-thyme.  So grab your blender and chill.

Green Slushie
makes 32 ounces

• 1 cup fresh pineapple chunks
• 1/2 cup squeezed lime juice
• 1 1/2 tablespoons agave nectar
• 1 handful watercress with stems
• 6 mint leaves
• 2 cups ice
• 6 ounces cold water
• mint sprigs to garnish

Special equipment

• blender with ice-crushing ability
• fat drinking straws

1. Add all ingredients to blender. Process according to manufacturer's directions.
2. Divide among two large glasses or four small ones.  Garnish with mint sprigs and serve with fat drinking straws.

vegan whole grain waffles

with millet, oats, and coconut

There is a fantastic cookbook that you really must pick up: The Splendid Grain, by Rebecca Wood.  The author explores sweet and savory applications of grains from around the world, many of which can be purchased in bulk from a well-stocked, natural foods store.  Organized by continent of their provenance, grains from amaranth to tef are introduced and described in sumptuous detail. Though the recipes are not necessarily vegan, many of them can be nudged into animal-free territory with a few simple modifications.

The recipe at the top of my "must-try" stack was Overnight Buckwheat and Millet Waffles.  I love waffles, always claiming at least two when my mom made a batch on a laid-back weekend morning.  Unlike Mom's, though, this recipe includes no flour.  Instead, the duo of whole grains is soaked overnight and then blended with the other ingredients into a smooth batter.  It sounded delicious enough to make me disregard the memory of the last buckwheat dish I'd made (a steamed kasha salad that tasted like dust).  Alas, there were no buckwheat groats to be found at my local Whole Foods.  What a convenient excuse to use oats instead!


In addition to the oat substitution, I replaced the milk and egg of the original recipe with vegan baking ingredients.  Any non-dairy milk should work, and I used Blue Diamond Almond Breeze in the chilled Original variety.  This was my first time to try the product, which was tasty on its own, in addition to performing well in the waffle batter.    In place of the prescribed single egg, I opted for Ener-G Egg Replacer.  While it doesn't bring any additional nutrition or flavor to the party, I've found that Ener-G works really well in loose batters like this one.  I may try using ground flaxseed in the future, but there seems to be a trick to using it: changing the proportion of flax to water will give it more leavening or binding properties.  Ener-G is a safe choice for this application, and it delivers predictably egg-like results!

Since shredded coconut is among the ingredients, I used unrefined coconut oil in place of the butter. The spice trio of orange zest, cinnamon, and coriander were a refreshing match to the mildly-sweet coconut. There is no sugar in the recipe, which is appropriate, since the only thing to do with a waffle is to drown drizzle it with maple syrup (and perhaps a dab of Earth Balance). For a special occasion like Mother's Day (May 9, 2010) or Husband's Day (every day), serving with orange-infused maple syrup would add a special touch.

You should make these waffles. They will motivate you to dig out the waffle iron more often. Or, in my case, to buy a waffle iron, since Mom's probably going to want hers back to make a batch of her own. Enjoy!

Overnight Millet, Oat, and Coconut Waffles
adapted from The Splendid Grain by Rebecca Wood
makes 4 waffles

• 1 cup millet, lightly toasted and crushed
• 1 cup steel cut oats, lightly toasted
• 2 1/4 cups almond milk
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Ener-G Egg Replacer
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1/4 cup shredded coconut
• 2 tablespoons virgin unrefined coconut oil, softened
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1. In a medium mixing bowl, add millet, oats, and almond milk.  Stir to combine and refrigerate for three to eight hours.
2. >When ready to make waffles, preheat the waffle iron according to manufacturer's instructions.
3. Remove soaked grains from refrigerator and pour with all liquid into a blender.
4. Prepare Ener-G mixture in a small bowl by vigorously whisking powder in 2 T water until dissolved.
5. Add Ener-G mixture and all remaining ingredients to blender.  Blend until grain is combined into a loose batter.
6. Pour batter onto waffle iron and bake according to manufacturers instructions.
7. Serve hot.

Notes: Your choice of non-dairy milk may be substituted for almond milk. If not using Ener-G Egg Replacer, use substitute of your choice to equal one egg. This batter may take longer to cook than flour-based batter; waffles are ready when surface is light golden brown in color.  Suggested additions: one tablespoon of poppy seeds sprinkled in waffle iron before pouring in batter; up to 1/4 cup of chopped pecans added to batter.

wicked plants by amy stewart

a fun read

This book was shared with me by my neighbor, a Master Gardener and overall inquisitive person.  Wicked Plants is a handbook of 200 annoying, irritating, entertaining intoxicating, dangerous, and even lethal members of kingdom Plantae.  While I wouldn't use it as a field guide-- its purpose is to amuse more than to instruct-- this little book introduces some exotic specimens:

• The shiny, black berries of deadly nightshade (belladonna) can cause hallucinations, seizures, and yes, even death, if ingested.  The plant contains atropine, a compound that has been used to treat poisoning from nerve gas and is sometimes added to painkillers to deter addiction.
• Betel nut, the fruit of a tropical palm, is a widely-used stimulant in some countries in Asia.  It provides a mild high and energy boost, but is known to blacken the teeth and to promote copious amounts of red saliva.
• In addition to its caustic sap, the Sandbox Tree produces fruits that explode loudly upon maturing, launching their poisonous seeds up to 300 feet away.  

And it illuminates others we thought we knew:

• Celery can be a skin irritant, as it produces phototoxic compounds to defend itself against pink rot fungus.
• Rhododendron and Azalea, popular landscaping shrubs, contain grayanotoxin in their leaves, flowers, nectar, pollen, and even honey made from the pollen.  Symptoms of ingesting this poison include dizziness and vomiting.
• The trees of cashew and mango produce urushiol, the skin irritant that many of us have encountered through poison ivy.  For this reason, cashew nuts must be steamed open from their potentially irritating skins, meaning that even raw cashews are partially cooked!

If you pick up this book, you will also read about pernicious arrow poisons, fierce allergens, and vicious algae (no mention of the particular villain from Life of Pi, though).  Names of familiar historical figures appear throughout, including Lewis and Clark, Charles Darwin, and Sigmund Freud.  Pop culture icons are also mentioned... mostly in the context of plants labelled, "intoxicating" and "illegal."

The format of Wicked Plants makes it a good choice for reading a quick chapter before drifting to sleep... though it might promote a few nightmares!  As a devoted plant-eater, I think it's worthwhile to be reminded of the complex, powerful nature of florae.  As the author suggests, we should treat unknown plants with caution, be mindful of what our pets are eating, and always wear gloves when gardening!

vegan enchilada bowl

an intuitive kitchen experience

It started with a packet of red chile powder from New Mexico.  My mother-in-law had sent it to me after her most recent visit; it is what she uses in her kitchen, and we couldn't find it anywhere in town.  I first used it in a tomato-based sauce to go with a quick, Americanized-Mexican dinner.  Honestly, I wasn't impressed; I've never been to the Southwest, never had their regional cuisine... I didn't see why their chiles were such a big deal.

Come to think of it, I'd never been a big enchilada fan, anyway.  Any of the sauces that appeared on someone else's entrée at a local Mexican resto did not impress me upon sampling.  (I always sample.  Ask my friends.)  Pretty flavorless and boring, as I recall.

Then, a few weeks ago,  a co-worker mentioned that authentic enchilada sauce is roux-, not tomato-based.  Interesting.

Fast forward to this week, when I off-handedly simmered a batch of pinto beans and one of brown rice.  I didn't have a plan, just wanted something filling to be available in the fridge.  I put in the minimal flavorings: garlic, onion, salt and pepper, cumin.  I figured it would make a serviceable dinner with red onion, jalapeño, chopped tomato, and corn tortillas.  Wrong.  Too dry, in texture and flavor.  The beans' pot likker did not cut it, and a healthy dose of Trader Joe's Salsa Autentica didn't even do the trick.  Charles subtly abandoned his plate, replying politely, "Oh, I had a big snack," when pressed about his light appetite.

I packed the leftovers, fresh garnish and all, into the fridge, where they would have remained if not for the tickling memory of the red chile powder.  Might as well give it a try!  Just now, I made a quarter-cup of light roux in a saucepot, and whisked in a few tablespoons of red chile powder and some salt.  Added water, plus a few tablespoons of salsa and a shake of a few handy spices.

All of this time, I never heard a peep from the little kitchen angel who prompts me to consult the Web before following my recipe hunches, especially when they involve unfamiliar ingredients or techniques.  But really, great traditional foods like enchiladas were not invented by a team of recipe developers... they evolved in communities of people who cooked out of necessity.  "Hey, you know those chiles we eat with everything?  Well, I ground some up and put it in my gravy.  You should try it!"

I reheated the forlorn beans and rice and topped them with enchilada sauce.  The combination tasted much better, but lacked richness.  Not more oil... avocado!  Its cool creaminess would be the perfect foil to the earthy heat of the sauce.  All we needed now was a little sweet and sour: I added a spritz of lime juice and soft corn tortillas and served it up.  Within a few minutes, Charles requested seconds.   Triumph!

So, to sum it up, here's my recipe for enchilada sauce: canola oil, wheat flour, New Mexican red chile powder, water, Salsa Autentica, cumin, salt, pepper, lime juice.  Next time, I plan to add sautéed onions and garlic to the sauce, and black olives to the garnish. Really, the directions for this recipe are simply to go into your kitchen and to use an unfamiliar ingredient or technique.  Don't look up a recipe, just add a few things that might taste good and keep it simple.  You'll end up with something different than your usual fare, plus a great feeling of satisfaction.  And the results will probably taste delicious over rice and beans.